In a country where anything ‘exotic’ is often equated with luxury, one chef has made it his mission to reframe Japanese food in India—not as an unattainable indulgence but as a homegrown experience steeped in history, simplicity, and deep cultural resonance. Brehadeesh Kumar, 27 year old co-founder of the popular Japanese restaurant Ginkgo’s has become the first non-Japanese individual to be appointed as a Japanese Cuisine Goodwill Ambassador.
Four years before that, Ginkgo opened in Mumbai and Pune. It is named after an ancient Japanese tree that symbolises love and duality. “My fascination with Japan began early. In second or third grade, my Hindi textbook had a chapter about an author’s who travels to Japan. His descriptions captured my imagination. When I was a child I used to collect coins and the Japanese coin in my collection stood out,” says Chef.
Kumar, an IHM Mumbai graduate, spent a year in Japan, honing his Japanese and mastering the art of confectionery. He gained hands-on experience at Kyoto’s Kikunoi Honten, a revered three-Michelin-star restaurant with a 180-year legacy. “I returned to India and realised the so-called Japanese restaurants in India weren’t serving anything a Japanese person would recognise as authentic,” he says.
That realisation led Kumar to creating Gingko. While the establishment offers approachable Japanese cuisine—ramen, karaage, sushi, gyoza—designed for both first-timers and familiar palates, it is the lesser-known aji fry (panko-breaded horse mackerel), that are the game changers. "People may come for sushi, but once they’ve dined here a few times, they start asking about new options. If I had started with a menu full of unfamiliar items, no one would have ordered them,” he reasons. For example, few are aware of kaiseki—a refined, seasonal cuisine rooted in the same traditions that once shaped Buddhist and Hindu food philosophy. Kumar, who specialises in kaiseki, describes it as “a traditional multi-course Japanese dinner, much like India’s satvik food. Kaiseki follows strict principles, often omitting red meat, onions, and garlic, yet making space for the one ingredient indispensable to Japanese cuisine: fish.”
A painting and sculpting enthusiast, he noticed that in Japan even an ordinary meal often came with an illustration explaining its history or ingredients. “It made me appreciate not just the food but the thought and craftsmanship behind it; I decided to incorporate this idea into my own work. When I prepare a dish, especially one unfamiliar to diners, I create an accompanying illustration," he says.
Japanese hospitality, or omotenashi, is deeply ingrained in Gingko’s culture. In many ways, it mirrors the Indian concept of Atithi Devo Bhava or guest is God. But in Japan, there’s an added layer of precision and mindfulness. “In a high-end kaiseki restaurant, a chef will subtly tailor each dish to suit the guest,” explains Kumar. A young woman and a 60-year-old man may be served the same dish, but with small adjustments to enhance their experience. “The goal is to create a dining experience that feels as authentic as possible, even for guests who may never have been to Japan,” he says.
People connect with food more deeply when they know its origins and cultural significance. Instead of simply listing ingredients on a menu, Kumar lets diners take home a piece of the story.
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