Kerala is under the grip of a scorching sun. Daily, the temperature is intensifying, and it’s now even dangerous to step out into the heat.
Though the government advises staying indoors during the peak hours, for many, it’s simply not feasible. So, everyone arms themselves with umbrellas, shawls to cover their faces, sunscreen, and shades. While these items provide relief, the overall functioning of the body largely depends on what we consume.
The intense summer also affects the body’s essential functions, including metabolism, digestion, and fluid balance. Therefore, the food choices we make during this time directly impact how well we can stay cool, or conversely, how heat can make us feel sluggish and unproductive.
Kerala’s traditional food habits were once shaped to suit the region’s moderate rainfall and not-so-harsh summers. However, over time, the increasingly erratic climate has impacted these age-old practices, altering the food habits.
In earlier times, Kerala’s food culture also placed particular importance on dishes that helped beat the heat and kept the body cool, which is now largely overlooked.
‘Moderation is key’
M R Vasudevan Namboothiri, the retired director of Ayurveda Medical Education, explains that in ayurveda, the summer season is known as greeshma ritu, one of the six seasons. During this period, two factors — rooksham (dryness) and ushnam (heat) — are on the rise.
“As these two elements increase, it becomes essential to focus on maintaining sheetha (coolness) and snigdha (moisture). So it is important to prioritise foods that contribute these qualities.”
According to Vasudevan, foods that support these cooling and hydrating qualities include milk, ghee, coconut chutney with ginger, vegetables with high water content, and summer fruits such as mango and jackfruit.
“During this season, our digestive system tends to be weaker, so it’s key to opt for lighter foods. However, it’s also important not to compromise on protein intake. One of the best-balanced meal options is kanji (carbohydrate) mixed with cherupayar (protein), along with a spoon of ghee (healthy fat).”
As the body feels exhausted in summer, Vasudevan also recommends buttermilk mixed with turmeric and a pinch of black pepper. “It’s important to reduce the consumption of spices and salt, as they overheat the body. So, moderation is the key. Among spices, black pepper is the best choice during this season.”
Instead of regular drinking water, experts recommend choosing karingali vellam, sambharam, and lime juice. “As we tend to sweat a lot, it’s important to avoid carbonated drinks. Cooling the body during this season is essential, as diseases like conjunctivitis, chickenpox, and viral fevers are quite common,” says Vasudevan.
Across regions and religions
Deepa G, an assistant professor of history at CAS College Madayi in Kannur, highlights how food preferences during the summer varied regionally.
In many parts of Kerala, summer beverages are as diverse as the foods.
“A popular drink in Malabar is Avil vellam, a sweetened drink made with jaggery, and sometimes coconut is added. It has a loose consistency and is especially enjoyed during celebrations.”
She also explains drinks that were introduced to Kerala, like lime juice brought by Arabs to the coast and Sarbath through Mughal traditions.
In Kerala’s hilly regions, the availability of honey has led to honey-infused drinks becoming popular. “Then vellam or honey water is one such drink. It is primarily made to serve guests and acts as a natural cooling agent,” she adds.
Among the Muslim community, thari kanji, made with rava, milk, and shallots, is quite popular, she adds. And in Christian households, particularly among Latin Catholics and Syrian Christians, squash made from bilimbi fruit is a constant favourite, along with wine. In both Christian and Hindu homes, gooseberries are preserved in salt for years, and the juice made from them is highly popular,” says Deepa.
In central Kerala, one notable summer dish is ettadangazhi. “Yam, colocasia, lesser yam, Chinese potato, plantain, nanakizhangu, purple yam, and marachembu are all roasted. After roasting, they are crushed into small pieces. Then, beans, chickpeas, and muthira are also roasted and powdered. Then add grated jaggery and coconut, ghee, ripe plantains, and palm sugar, which are then mixed with powdered yams and beans. This is the preparation of ettadangazhi,” says Deepa.
Padmini Antharjanam, author of the cookbook, Namboothiri Paachakam, emphasises the importance of cooling drinks during the summer.
“Malli Kaapi mixed with jaggery used to be a popular choice during summer. Another refreshing drink is made from vazha kaambu or unni thandu. After dicing it, press and extract juice,” she says.
Padmini also highlights the benefits of dishes made from leafy vegetables. These cool down the body. She also notes another lesser-known summer dish: an appam made from thavidu. “It’s a great source of Vitamin B. To make it, mix thavidu with rice, then add banana, water, ghee, and jaggery.”
Here, let’s delve into a few modern and traditional summer recipes.
Mohabbat Ka Sharbat
Ingredients
* Rooh Afza syrup - 1 tbsp
* Watermelon small pieces- 1 cup
* Cold Milk- 1 cup
* Soaked chia seeds- 1 teaspoon
* Milkmaid- 3 tablespoon
Method
In a glass, bowl put the watermelon pieces and smash them well using a spoon. Pour cold milk and Rooh Afza syrup and then add milkmaid, soaked chia seeds. Mix everything well.
Coconut-Snap Melon smoothie By Chef Shaji, Trivandrum
Ingredients
* Snapmelon: 500g (without seeds and skin)
* Coconut milk: 300ml
* Sugar (Jaggery): 80g
Method
Mix all the ingredients in a mixer jar and blend it. Serve it chilled
Brazilian lemonade
Ingredients
*Limes: 5
* Cold water: 3 1/4 cups
* Ice: 3 cups
* Sweetened condensed milk: 1 can (400ml)
Method
Wash and scrub the skin of the limes with your hand. Slice off the edges and cut the lime into small wedges. In a blender take water and lime and blend until they combine (for a minute). Strain the mix through a fine sieve and remove the chunky pieces. Clean the blender and add the mixture back to it. Add ice and condensed milk. Blend everything into a smooth mix (1 minute). Serve.
EAT SMART
Summer is when people consume a slew of fruits for their cooling and hydration properties. However, not all fruits have a cooling effect. Rajiv Ambat, founder of NuvoVivo Center for Obesity, Lifestyle Disorders & Research, highlights the concept of the thermic effect of food (TEF), which is the energy the body uses to process food.
“Protein has a higher TEF than carbohydrates and fats. In fruits like papaya and pineapple, enzymes such as papain and bromelain aid in protein digestion. These enzymes speed up the process leading to increased body heat. Similarly, mangoes contain bioactive compounds like mangiferin, which can raise body temperature and even trigger skin breakouts in some people. However, that being said, anything in moderation is key,” he says.
Rajiv also points out that certain foods, such as spicy dishes, can raise body heat. “Capsaicin, found in spicy foods, activates receptors that sense heat, creating the sensation of heat,” he says. To stay cool in summer, he recommends consuming fruits and vegetables with high water content. “This includes cucumbers, watermelon, and citrus fruits, along with electrolyte-rich options like coconut water and buttermilk.”
Since fruit consumption increases in summer, Rajiv advises being mindful of pesticide residues. “Grapes, guavas, and apples often have high pesticide levels. Pesticide residues can be harmful, especially for those with kidney issues or high creatinine levels,” he says.
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