Even after 77 years of Independence, royalty retains its cachet in India. Especially, the food. Bhopal’s legacy, spanning 250 years, is deeply tied to its Begums and Nawabs. The Nawabs, often on the move, favoured simple, wild-game dishes like Jungli maas and Bater korma.
“Bhopali cuisine is a fascinating blend of Afghan and Indian flavours, enriched by influences from the Narmada Valley. Known for hearty mutton kormas and kebabs, dishes like rezala and qaliya hold a cherished place in local hearts,” says Mumbai-based archaeologist and culinary anthropologist Dr Kurush F Dalal.
Says Begum Niloufer Rashiduzzafar Khan, great-granddaughter of erstwhile ruler Sultan Jahan Begum, “Our cuisine has evolved over the centuries without losing its essence.
The kitchen combines Mughlai flavours—spices like cardamom, saffron, and black pepper—with local Bhopali ingredients, such as poppy seeds. At our family’s kothi, chefs are trained by khansamas from Bramhpur to perfect these recipes.”
Many of the traditional recipes loved by the Begums continue to be a central part of the menu at, for example the Jehan Numa Group of Hotels, in the city. Director Faiz Rashid says, “These recipes have been passed down with the utmost care to preserve their original flavours.”
One such dish is the Bhopali murgh rezala, tracing its roots to the ceremonial Jashn-e-Hariyali, a monsoon festival where the Begums of Bhopal honoured the rains with this green, landscape-inspired dish. Says chef Jeewan Singh Rawat, “In Bhopal, with its abundance of water bodies and greenery, leafy vegetables like coriander were incorporated into the rezala.”
Unlike the Bengali rezala, which evolved in 19th-century Calcutta with Nawab Wajid Ali Shah’s exile, the Bhopali version uses coriander. Nandita Godbole, author of Masaleydaar: Classic Indian Spice Blends, underlines the key distinction between the two.
“A defining element of the Bengali rezala is the use of crushed poppy seed paste, combined with yoghurt and cashews to produce a rich, creamy sauce. In contrast, the Bhopali rezala uses boiled onion paste, yoghurt, and fresh coriander leaves.” Central to its distinctiveness is the secret spice blend known as rezala masala, made by local cooks.
Each chef has his own version, with the proportions meticulously safeguarded. Traditionally, the rezala was slow-cooked over a woodfire and coal in copper handis for up to 10 hours. These copper vessels, excellent heat conductors, helped retain the dish’s natural juices.
Cooks controlled the temperature by adjusting layers of wood and coal, covering the pot with a lid to create a sealed, even heat. At the peak of cooking, additional coal was added, while red-hot charcoal was placed on top to regulate heat. The Begums of Bhopal are long gone, but the flavours of the age live on.
Bhopali Murgh Rezala
Ingredients:
• 3 tbsp ghee
• 2 tbsp Rezala masala
• 1 Kg chicken
• pinch of saffron
• 4 tbsp onion, ginger and garlic paste
• 1 cup hung curd
• 3 cinnamon sticks
• 8 cloves
• 8 green cardamom
• 2 tbsp coriander powder
• 1 tsp nutmeg powder
• 1 tsp clove powder
• 1 tsp mace powder
• 1 tsp black pepper powder
• 2 tbsp lemon juice
• 3 tbsp almonds, coconut and poppy seeds paste
• 4 cups chopped coriander
• 8 green chillies
• 1 cup fried onions
• salt to taste
• water as required
• 2 boiled eggs for garnishing
Method:
Marinate the chicken with spices and yogurt overnight for deeper infusion. To make hung curd, drain whey from full-fat yogurt in a muslin cloth for 4-6 hours or overnight. Heat ghee, sauté cinnamon, cloves, and cardamom until fragrant, then add onion, ginger-garlic paste, and chicken. Stir in coriander powder, fried onions, and salt.
Add poppy seeds, almonds, coconut paste, and hung curd, mixing to a smooth blend. Prepare a separate curd mix with rezala masala, mace, clove, nutmeg, black pepper, saffron, and fried onions, then stir into the chicken. Add coriander, green chilies, water, and cook until the oil separates. In a pan, heat ghee with slit chilies and lemon juice, then add to the curry. Garnish with coriander and boiled eggs, and serve hot.
Recipe courtesy, Sr. Associate Chef, Sunil Kumar, Jehan Numa Palace
“Bhopali cuisine is a fascinating blend of Afghan and Indian flavours, enriched by influences from the Narmada Valley.”
Dr Kurush F DalaL
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