Avatara opened in Dubai in early 2022 and bagged a Michelin star within a year, the only vegetarian Indian restaurant in the world to do it in style. It has now opened in Mumbai with an updated tasting menu that is an ode to its new home. And it is a winner.
Food: The 14-course tasting menu turns Indian vegetarian fine-dining on its head. The usual suspects—paneer and mushroom—are nowhere in sight nor do any of the dishes have onion or garlic. Instead, unassuming vegetables like turnip and bitter gourd take centrestage. There is Grinjanah: turnip kebab in rajma gogji on flaky amaranth katlam (Kashmiri bread). Or Subhanjana: drumstick chokha with sattu kachori in potato-mustard gravy. The often-overlooked bitter gourd is turned into a ghee roast and served with mango sambar gelato and dosa crisp. Every dish is referred to by its Sanskrit name. Executive chef Sanket Joshi brings Maharashtrian flair to the menu—so you have crispy okra stuffed with thecha (spicy condiment with green chilli and peanuts), a taco version of aluvadi (snack made with taro leaves), and sol kadhi poured over a delicate kokum-soaked green apple ‘rose’. However, the Kolhapur-style tambda rassa rice misses the mark, its overt spiciness overpowering the parsnip rassa. The dessert course (Madhuram) features Uttarakhand’s famous bal mithai that’s turned into a chocolate rosette. It is served with a buransh (rhododendron) drink to cut down the sweetness.
Service: A special note for the sommelier, whose competence is reflected in the thoughtful wine pairing.
Décor: The 2,000-sqft, 65-seater restaurant offers a tranquil ambience. The walls are awash in white, blue and aquamarine, channeling the natural Himalayan landscapes.
Price: Considering the quality of the food and experience, it is worth the spend at Rs 4,500 per person (plus taxes). However, the optional wine pairing is a bit steeply priced at an additional Rs 5,500.
7th Floor, Krishna Curve Building, Opp. Juhu Garden, Santacruz West, Mumbai;
Lunch: 12 noon and 2.15 pm; Dinner: 7 pm and 9.30 pm
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